Korea 2012: Day 2 Part 1 (Gyeongbokgung 경복궁 - Cheongjinok 청진옥)

Hey there! If you've just joined us, this post is a continuation from my previous post Korea 2012: Day 1 (Singapore - Incheon - Myeongdong)

I visited Korea in December 2012, for a 17-day trip (pretty long and laid back - with lots of cafe hopping).
Do remember that Korea does experience the 4 seasons, so if you're heading there at year end, or at the beginning of the year, pad up!

You can't visit Korea without paying a visit to one of their palaces. There are many traditional palaces in Korea situated in peaceful tranquility (well maybe not with the throngs of tour groups) among the high-rise modernised city of Seoul.

FOR THIS HISTORY BUFFS:
Gyeongbokgung 경복궁 is one of the biggest palaces left in Korea. Built in 1395, Gyeongbokgung Palace is also commonly referred to as the “Northern Palace” because it is the furthest north when compared to the neighboring palaces of Changdeokgung (Eastern Palace) and Gyeongheegung (Western Palace). Gyeongbokgung Palace is arguably the most beautiful and remains the grandest of all five palaces.
The premises were destroyed by fire during the Imjinwaeran War (Japanese Invasion, 1592-1598). However, all of the palace's 7,700 rooms were later restored under the leadership of Heungseondaewongun during the reign of King Gojong (1852-1919) .
Remarkably, the most representative edifices of the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeonghoe-ru Pavilion and Hyangwonjeong Pond are still relatively in tact. Woldae and the sculptures of Geunjeongjeon (The Royal Audience Chamber) represent past sculpture of contemporary art.
The National Palace Museum of Korea is located south of Heungnyemun Gate, and the National Folk Museum is located east within Hyangwonjeong.

HOW TO GET THERE:
1. Alight at Gyeongbokgung Palace Station 경복궁역 (Subway Line 3) and take Exit 5 which will take you
    right to the grounds of Gyeongbokgung 경복궁.
2. Alight at Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Subway Line 5) and take Exit 2. Cross the road on your left
    (Sejong-daero 세종대로) to that middle platform area, where you will meet this gigantic gold statue of
     King Sejong. Gwanghwamun 광화문, the entrance to Gyeongbokgung awaits, waiting for you in all its
     glory.

The grand and large statue of King Sejong - who created Hangul (the Korean alphabet).

The entrance to Gyeongbokgung - Gwanghwamun. If you can read traditional Chinese words, you can read the sign above. Korea back in the day had lots of influence from China, and is very much influenced in terms of language as well.

If you go at the right times, you will be able to witness the guard-changing ceremony at Gyeongbokgung, which takes place from Gwanghwamun to the large open area just behind this grand gateway. We arrived just in time to watch the performance.

Gwanghwamun Gate Guard-on-Duty Performance:
11:00, 14:00, 16:00 / three times a day / 10 minutes per ceremony

 If you're hoping to catch photos of them in action, be prepared to move and run around a lot! They go in, and out through the Gwanghwamun gateway.

My verdict? I must say it is a pretty spectacular sight, so if you have the time, or if you arrive at Gwanhwamun right on time, why not give it a shot. Even if you watch for 5 minutes, it would be better than missing it.

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And into the palace we go! I'll let the pictures speak for themselves!

  

I can only say that there are a little too many people around (coming in the forms of tour groups) which can be a little annoying. Otherwise the palace grounds are lovely to walk around, and enjoy the cool weather in.

That's the National Folk Museum of Korea - situated in or beside (can't be sure) the grounds of Gyeongbokgung. A fantastically beautiful building.

My verdict? Being the largest (supposedly) and one of the most famous palaces in Korea, you definitely have to visit it. Be immersed in traditional Korean culture situated in the middle of the modernised new Korea and be astounded by the beautiful architecture.

Gyeongbokgung Palace (경복궁)
22, Sajik-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul  | 서울특별시 종로구 사직로9길 22 (필운동)
Operating Hours: 0900-1700 (Closed on Tuesdays)
Adults: 3,000 won
How to Get Here: Gyeongbokgung Palace Station (Seoul Subway Line 3), Exit 5
                            Gwanghwamun Station (Seoul Subway Line 5), Exit 2

*P.S. if you're a palace afficiando, and you're itching to explore not just one but all the palaces in Korea,
         purchase the integrated palace tickets instead for 10,000 won. Its got more value for your money.

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With the grounds of Gyeongbokgung being so large, we were utterly famished just from walking and exploring the palace grounds. Jess recommended that we head to this really famous outlet for Hangover Soup - made from Ox Blood.

Haejangguk refers to all kinds of soup eaten to cure a hangover. Jongno is home to a number of famous haejangguk restaurants, and Cheongjinok (청진옥) is considered the forerunner among them. Opened in 1937, the restaurant has been run by three generations of the same family. Beef bones are simmered for more than 24 hours to make a rich broth, and soybean paste is added to neutralize the meaty odor. Ingredients added to the broth include various vegetables, clotted beef blood, beef intestines, and rice. Always crowded, Cheongjinok is open 24 hours a day.

HOW TO GET THERE:
Return to Gwanhwamun Station, and head towards Exit 4. Walk straight down Jongno 1-(il)-ga 종로구청입구. Turn left into the Le Meilleur Jongrotown (르메이에르 종로타운) building and the restaurant will be inside.

The entrance of the restaurant with its lovely wooden exterior. Its somewhere near the car park entrance of the building so watch out for oncoming traffic.

Cheongjinok is famous for their ox-blood with vegetables hangover soup. I can see some of you squirming in your seats already. OX BLOOD?!?! I thought it was gross too at that point in time so I didn't order it. Didn't particularly feel like soup that day. Jess ordered 안주국 anjuguk which is soup meant to be eaten with alcoholic beverages (which she didn't) while I ordered Bindaetteok 빈대떡 which is mung bean pancake.

    This pancake really set the standards for me. It was so crispy and tasty, and I do love my mung beans.  
    YUM. I was really happy to have ordered this. There were 2 layers of pancake as well, so its twice of
    what you see in the picture. This mung bean pancake cost 13, 000 won.

 

Jess' order of Anjuguk 13, 000 won - she let me try some and it tasted really yummy. It had a lot of different cuts of the cow in it, but it didn't taste like anything bad. It was actually rather flavourful and beefy in terms of taste while the spring onions really helped lift that soup fragrance.

My verdict? You don't have to have a hangover to enjoy this beefy soup. I will however acknowledge that it is not suitable to everyone's tastebuds. Prices can be considered a tad pricey to some of you because of their good and well known reputation. You could always try other food places around Gyeongbokgung such as Tosokchon 토속촌 which serves excellent Ginseng Chicken Soup.

Cheongjinok (청진옥) 

19, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울특별시 종로구 종로 19 (종로1가)
Tel for Reservations: +82-2-735-1690 | Open 24 hours
How to get there:
1. Jonggak Station (Subway Line 1), Exit 1.Go straight for 250m to Lemeilleur Jongno Town.
2. Gwanghwamun Station (Subway Line 5), Exit 4. Go straight and turn left to Lemeilleur Jongno Town.

P.S. This restaurant is recommended in the Michelin guide. 

That's for all day 2 part 1. Stay tuned to the next post where we head to 63 building to check out the wax sculptures.

Thanks for reading this post! Do leave behind any comments, feedback or questions for me and I will do my best to improve or help you.

Fly Safe and Eat Happy,
V